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[객원 에디터 9기 / 윤채원 기자] Cosmetogenomics, a rapidly growing field in the skincare industry, is revolutionizing the way people care for their skin by using genetic science to create highly personalized skincare products. Combining “cosmetics” with “genomics,” this scientific field studies how individual genetic variations influence skin function and how specific ingredients can have different effects based on these variations.
Our DNA contains thousands of genes that control everything from eye color to disease risk. However, recent research in genome mapping reveals that it also influences how our skin behaves: how much melanin we produce, how fast our collagen breaks down, how well we fight inflammation, and how effectively our skin defends against oxidative stress caused by pollution and UV light.
These characteristics are affected by small genetic variations called SNPs (single nucleotide polymorphisms). Cosmetogenomics aims to identify these SNPs and then select skincare ingredients that can either support or counteract their effects.
The Process
The process begins with a simple cheek swab, used to collect skin cells from the inside of a person’s mouth. From this sample, scientists extract DNA and screen it for SNPs in key skin-related genes. Some of the most commonly analyzed genes include: MMP1, which encodes for enzymes that break down collagen; COL1A1, which is involved in collagen synthesis; MC1R, which regulates melanin production (sensitivity to sunlight and risk of hyperpigmentation); and SOD2, which produces antioxidant enzymes (skin’s defenses against environmental damage).
For example, if a person’s DNA reveals a high possibility of early collagen breakdown and low antioxidant capacity, their skin is likely exposed to premature aging. In that case, a routine rich in antioxidants like vitamin C and retinol will be recommended. In other cases, niacinamide might help regulate melanin production for those with MC1R variants prone to hyperpigmentation.
One leader in this new field is SkinDNA, an Australian company that offers at-home DNA testing kits specialized in skin-related conditions. Customers send in a cheek swab and receive a report analyzing genetic indicators across five key areas: firmness and elasticity, wrinkling, sun damage and pigmentation, antioxidant protection, and skin sensitivity. Based on this genetic profile, the company provides evidence-based skincare and ingredients recommendations highly customized to each customer.
